2009 Ports of Call 42 - 46

 

Click on this link and you will be directed to pictures of all 2009 trips.

 

Greece:  Skiros Island to Lesbos Island

Aug 5 - 11

 

The wind forecast was picking up and not favorable for crossing the Aegean Sea for a week.  We wanted to get to the eastern side where the meltemi is not so strong.

 

It was a five hour journey to Skiros Island (middle of the Aegean), somewhat rough, but tolerable.  Skiros is the largest island of the Sporades.  Supposedly its northern section is covered in pine trees, but we saw only the barren south.  We anchored by the capital Linaria, where The Prize had a fitful night, turning over her anchor and slipping just as we were preparing for a 5:30 AM departure.

 

We knew the journey to Lesbos Island would be rough.  The winds were up to 20 knots, waves up to 8 feet.  It was a bell-ringing cruise; supine was the ideal position.  We shortened the journey to six hours by speeding up and changing our destination to a night in Kalloni Gulf before proceeding to Plomari, home of Ouzo Barbayanni.

 

Names associated with Lesbos Island are a roll call of gentle artists and wise sages.  Greatest is poetess Sappho, born here in 612 BC.  Aristotle, Epicurus, and Aesop are just a few of the others who were from or lived here.

Turkey:  Kirkdilim Bay & Kusadasi

Aug 11 - 16

 

Winds are still strong; the Greek flag tells it all.  We changed our destination from Sigacik to Kirkdilim, hoping for a calmer anchorage.  The wind was gusty all night and the foxes moaned, but the sunset was pretty.

 

Although Izmir (ancient Smyrna) is Turkey’s most important port and has been praised since ancient times, we decided to skip it.  The pilot book said its waters of the bay are poisonous (swimming is prohibited), the harbor is grubby and uncomfortable, and the city is an unattractive sprawl of reinforced concrete.  So on to Kusadasi.

 

Kusadasi (it means Isle of Birds) is built on the site of ancient Neapolis, of which nothing remains.  Today it is a booming tourist town where up to eight cruise ships can be anchored.  They come primarily to see the ancient ruins of Ephesus, only  10 miles away.  However, there are several other sites to see in the area as well as many, many shops to explore in this brand knock-off heaven.  Plus they have the best ever fruit and vegetable market we have ever seen.

 

Bob & Marilyn Dorries (Shell friends) joined us in Kusadasi in time for dinner and a day at Ephesus and surrounding area.

Turkey:  Ephesus  +

Aug 15

 

Ephesus is the most important ancient city in Turkey, so says a Turkish tour book.  Even during Apostle Paul’s time it was important: the Roman capital and principal commercial city of Asia. It was a harbor city until the river silted up; it is now five miles inland.

 

The ruins are layers of different time periods, starting before 1000 BC.  The site is impressive for its size and for the clarity with which you can picture the ancient city.  You can walk down the marble streets and see ruins of the baths, parliament, temples, library (pictured above), toilets, stadium, gymnasium, amphitheater (where Paul preached), etc.  In addition, they have recently opened terrace houses that show the incredible wealth the people had and the engineering feats that were accomplished (e.g., inside running water, toilets, and under-floor heating).

 

Ephesus was also the last home of Mary, mother of Jesus.  Since it was Assumption Day, it was an appropriate day to visit this shrine where John took her to spend her final days.

 

We also visited a silk rug factory, learning how silk is made after a wonderful lunch by local farm women.